Chikankari is a fine and intricate shadow-work type of embroidery done by white yarn on colourless muslins called tanzeb (tan meaning body and zeb meaning decoration). The word ‘chikan’ according to one school of thought appears to have had its origin in Persia, being derivative of chakin or chakeen. Indian women wear chikan sareesor aunty saree at all occasions these sarees are available at different colors and designs.it is also known as chikan lucknowi sarees. It may also be a distorted form of the work chikeen or siquin, a coin valued at Rs. 4 for which the embroidery was sold. Another explanation ascribes its origin to East Bengal where the word chikan meant ‘fine’.
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There are suggestions on fabric preferences - such as cotton, silk, crepe, georgette, etc - for a particular type of saree-wearing that will ensure a better overall look and feel.
The earliest reference in literature to chikan dates back to the 3rd century B.C. In his records Megasthenes, a Greek traveller, had mentioned the use of flowered muslins by the Indians.
Stitching on chikan saris are great and can be divided into three categories: Flat stitches, which are delicate and subtle and lie close to the surface of the fabric giving it a distinctive textural appearance; Embossed stitches which are highlighted from the fabric surface lending it a characteristic grainy texture and Jali work which is the most striking feature of chikan embroidery and which creates a delicate net effect. The fabric is broken into holes by ‘teasing’ the warp and weft yarns and holding them in position by small stitches.
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